If some crazed dictator or terrorist ever decides to drop the big one on us, Mimi's 46th North Bar & Grill in Florissant is the only bar in St. Louis ready for the day of reckoning. The place is hidden in the back of a strip-mall parking lot, downstairs in the windowless basement below a pharmacy. Fueled by $1.25 frosty mugs of Busch and 50-cent Jell-O shots, the atmosphere belies the bomb shelter-like location. There are two pool tables and two steel-tipped dart boards. They book live music on the weekends, and in the afternoon, the jukebox plays a steady stream of '80s classics. They serve the sort of bar food that requires a roll of paper towels at each table: burly burgers, housemade pizza and one-pound servings of fiery hot wings.

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