Armed with an Ole Hickory smoker, a veteran pitmaster and an award-winning chicken-wing recipe, owners Andy and Dee Dee Kohn throw their hats into the barbecue ring with WildSmoke. The west-county smokehouse churns out some serious barbecue from its strip-mall facade. The ribs are just as one would expect from a barbecue joint -- tender, meaty, rubbed with spices and infused with sweet smoke that makes sauce unnecessary. Burnt ends are another must-try. These rich, caramelized chunks of beef make the perfect barbecue sandwich. WildSmoke is known for its smoked chicken wings that taste like they have been marinated in brown sugar and Worcestershire sauce. Those looking for the novelty of more gimmicky offerings should check out the "Hot'lanta" chicken and waffles or the barbecue sundae, although WildSmoke is at its best when it sticks to the basics. And save room for the pecan pie. It's spiked with so much bourbon it will slur your speech.