The torta ahogada at Taqueria Durango
means "drowned," and a torta ahogada
brings carnitas and grilled onions on the traditional oblong bolillo roll coated with red-chile sauce. The sauce is smoky and, to my capsaicin-craving palate, medium hot. The carnitas are equally impressive: luscious with fat without seeming greasy, and quite flavorful. The onions add bite and a touch of sweetness, making for, on the whole, a terrific fork-and-knife sandwich.
10238 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-429-1113
"For the Love of Tacos"
- May 27, 2010