Jennifer Silverberg
Shawarma on the spit at the Vine
A pass-through affords a glimpse into the kitchen: At certain angles you can see the vertical spits on which spin inverted cones of meat and chicken shawarma. The meat shawarma is an especially beguiling sight, a patchwork of beef and lamb as thick as a linebacker's thigh. This is sliced to order and served over rice with pita bread and a tangy tahini sauce -- a build-your-own-gyro kit, if you like.
Folded into a pita or eaten plain with your fork, the Vine's meat shawarma is nothing short of excellent. Inevitably your order will contain a few pieces from the exterior of the spit -- crisp, even crunchy, and enjoyable in its own way, like the edges of pork carnitas. But the majority of the meat is so tender you might think it had been braised. Really, the process isn't very different, as the spit's long, slow spinning gives the fat inside the meat time to render. The flavor has the richness of pot roast, with enough of lamb's gaminess to keep things lively on the palate.