Chitterlings of Troyes (" target="_blank">Andouillettes de Troyes)
Chitterlings require a great deal of care in their preparation; in fact it must be remarked that the quality depends entirely upon the proper cleansing of the bowels.
Ingredients
pork bowels
calf's crow
throat fat taken from the pig
salt pork
salt
pepper
allspice
nutmeg
onion
shallot
mignonette
parsley
Take some pork bowels, removing the stomach and the easing, only using the large intestine, wash this in cold water.
Turn it inside out in such a way that the fatty part is inside; in order to accomplish this easily, take a stick a yard long, place the end of it in three inches of the narrowest end of the pipe and run the pipe entirely on the stick, keeping it all the time in its original place; when it is all on let slide by pulling it slowly on the first part, that is on the stick, and the pipe will turn over all alone.
Now clean it in lukewarm water acidulated with vinegar, changing it three times and leave to soak for three hours; rub it once more through the hands so as to remove all the remaining gluey parts.
Put aside the uncrimped part of the pipe which will answer for wrapping purposes and set the remainder in a put full of cold water; heat until the pipe becomes a little hard, not letting it boil. Afterward cut the pipe lengthwise, lay it perfectly flat spread it out and clean it thoroughly; cut it into thin strips as long as possible without separating the parts.
Cut also into the same lengths the crimped part of a calf's crow suppressing the fat center.
Cut up about a pound and a half of salt pork into strips.
Now lay all these out on a table in the proportion of two-thirds of the bowels and the other third composed of crow and throat fat; dress in oblong shape, being careful that the left side has the least possible loose ends; the size to be about eight to nine strips.
Season this laid-out part with a minced seasoning composed of three onions, three shallots, half a handful of very finely chopped parsley, pepper, allspice, nutmeg and mignonette, strewing it over the whole.
Pass a strap made of two six inch lengths of birchwood fastened together with an inch length of string through the opening on the left end, and turn it in such a way that the chitterling has the appearance of a twisted cable.
Cut the pipes laid aside for wrapping purposes into sixteen-inch lengths, have the fatty part outside, operating the same as when turning over the gut itself, placing the gut one inch below the hole; run the chitterling through, being careful to keep the first end at the extremity of the chitterling; tie both ends.
Although this may appear very easy, yet it is a, difficult operation to perform for the first time and requires a certain practice.
How to Cook the Chitterlings
To have them very white, cook in a stock of half milk, half water, one onion, thyme, bay leaf, salt and lemon; leave to boil slowly for about three hours.
In order to give a finer appearance, restuff the chitterling after the first cooking in an uncrimped pipe and leave on a slow fire for fifteen minutes, keeping it near boiling point.
Now lay it in a napkin and press between two boards with weights on top.
How to Broil
Score the chitterlings on both sides about three-sixteenths of an inch in depth. Baste with oil or butter, broil on a slow fire and dress on a dish over a little clear gravy.
