Dog Days at Quincy Street Bistro

The "Quincy Street Monster Dog" at Quincy Street Bistro - Ian Froeb
Ian Froeb
The "Quincy Street Monster Dog" at Quincy Street Bistro
The Place: Quincy Street Bistro (6931 Gravois Avenue, 314-353-1588), a new south city restaurant, a gut rehab of the old Jimmie's Saloon space. The menu features burgers, pizza, sandwiches and classic comfort-food and bar-and-grill fare: meatloaf, chicken-fried steak, crab cakes and beef modiga.

The Deal: The "Quincy Street Monster Dog," an eight-ounce, all-beef hot dog, with French fries, for $4.99

The Verdict: The size of this wiener (half a pound!) wasn't what caught my attention. No, what caused me to raise an eyebrow and then, after some deliberation, to order the "Quincy Street Monster Dog" was the fact that it's deep-fried.

If it isn't already obvious from the photo, that's "just" plain deep-fried, not battered and deep-fried. At any rate, the result is a hot dog with a very crisp casing and a soft, almost molten interior -- the contrast much greater (and more enjoyable) than your average grilled frankfurter has.

The hot dog is served on a length of toasted baguette. The $4.99 version comes unadorned, though for a $1.50 you can load it up with onions, nacho cheese and chili beans.

The $4.99 price does include a side of fries, thin and crisp and salty. For that price -- plus the cost of a drink as well as tax and tip -- you get a satisfying lunch for not much more than you'd spend at a fast-food joint.

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