At the Shack PubGrub (3818 Laclede Avenue; 314-533-7000), the "green eggs'n'ham" boardwalk fries come out fresh from the fryer crispy and completely smothered in creamed spinach, diced ham with just-barely caramelized corners, fresh-chopped green onions and a cheery yellow sunny-side-up fried egg. We don't know who that Dr. Seuss "Sam" guy is, but he'd be crazy to not crave these after giving them a try.
Fall calls for a specific kind of comfort. Sure, soup and cider count (the Shack offers both; the latter of the hard variety), but beyond that lies the desire for a big mess between bread with a side of freshly fried carbs. The Shack opened about a month ago with the intention of appeasing nearby college crowds and beyond with a moderately priced, high-quality menu of all that and more.
The concept, which fills the space formerly occupied by drinking destination Pierre Laclede's, comes from the same team that spearheaded the Tavern Kitchen & Bar as well as two locations of the Corner Pub and Grill.