Today's Question: How many of Michael Pollan's Food Rules can be broken in a chop suey joint?
Old St. Louis Chop Suey (83 Florissant Oaks Shopping Center; 314-831-7337)

"Help! I'm a prisoner in a Chinese bakery!" Was Michael Pollan's first writing job for a fortune-cookie company? The portentousness and faux sagacity of his Food Rules certainly hint at such beginnings. In particular, the ancient garble of Rule #24 is the kind of crumb-covered omen chop suey eaters immediately wad up in disgust.