Get Yer Wakame On

Don't gamble with a growling stomach: Go immediately to Nobu's.

If you screw up and try to go to In Soo on a Tuesday, your only recourse is to incline the SUV in a westernly direction and hie thee a block thither to Nobu's. This is not to say that you are not encouraged to hie to Nobu's generally; It should be stressed that Nobu's is highly recommended as a contingency plan whenever you are disinclined to play your growling stomach into the hands of chance.

On a recent visit prompted by In Soo's inconvenient and tiresome Tuesday closing policy, we ordered one of everything. Our server offered to have the chef chop it all in half, a rare and generous service of which we were pleased to avail ourselves. All was exquisite, from a tactful miso soup that seemed to have immediate and palpable health benefits, to a vegetable roll containing an immaculate, astringent, exotic frond. The fish stopped just short of wriggling. A wonderful sunomono of vinegared cucumber arrived in two delicate mounds topped with fresh ginger. Of the squid salad let it be known that we regard it with discriminating reverence as the pinnacle of all squid salads; served in a lovely little octagonal dish, infused with radish, sesame seed, and tiny slices of red chile, delicate slices of cuttlefish exuded a sweet, discrete heat.

If it's been a while since you've visited, drop everything and go get yer wakame on; the place may generally be regarded as the best sushi joint in town, making the particular stretch of Olive Street Road it shares with In Soo a no-fail destination.

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