A melancholy tone
flits through Medium Raw. In the chapter "Meat," Bourdain wonders
whether seemingly positive trends like chefs and diners alike insisting
on "happier" meat and embracing organ meats and other traditional
foodways have a downside. He writes, "Am I helping, once again, to kill
the things I love?" This idea of killing the things you love recurs.
"I
think if you fetishize certain simple good things long enough, loud
enough, you become part of the process of diminishing suppply and
increasing demand," Bourdain explains. "If you're fetishizing an
organic peach, you're certainly helping to raise the price of it.
"By
the same token, celebrating simple food that used to be the province of
the poor as some sort of exciting thing for comfortable, well-off
people, you're changing something that used to be a birthright.
"My
job and my passion is to find and celebrate these little out of the way
food stalls in remote parts of the world, yet by putting them on TV,
I'm changing their very nature. You go back now, they've moved, they're
twice as big.
"I wonder sometimes if I'm a malevolent force."
(In the episode of No Reservations
that premiered the same day as this interview, Bourdain cheekily
refuses to name a restaurant in Rome where he is blown away by the
pasta, again citing his fear of killing what he loves.)
A similar strain of self-criticism is evident in Bourdain's relatively gentle treatment in Medium Raw
of one of his favorite targets: Rachael Ray, Sandra Lee and other Food
Network stars. He reveals that he won't make fun of Ray after she sent
him a fruit basket, and he is the butt of the joke in a story about
running into Lee at an event.
In part, this is smart politics, as the
parent company of the Food Network recently purchased the Travel
Channel (though the only person Bourdain savages as fiercely as Alan
Richman is Brooke Johnson, the Food Network executive who he accuses of
dumbing down the network). In part, it is acceptance of how the food
world operates now.
"Food personalities -- I put Rachael Ray and
Paula Deen in this category -- I don't know that it matters that they
cook. [Viewers] see someone they like, and they want to spend time
with. I don't think anyone cares if Guy Fieri cooks. It makes people
feel better about themselves and the world."
As for Bourdain's
own show, the sixth season of No Reservations is currently airing, and he begins shooting
the seventh season soon. Among the planned locations for the next
season are the Congo, Haiti, Japan, Cambodia, China, Brazil and
Nicaragua.
Bourdain is also slated to live in Vietnam with his wife and
daughter for an entire year and write a book about the experience. Bourdain, laughing, cautions that this project is dependent on his No Reservations schedule: "If they ever
cancel the damn show!"