Since moving to St. Louis from Nigeria when he was a high schooler, Ono Ikanone has wanted to share the cuisine and culture of his homeland with his adopted city. Now, together with his wife, Justice Johnson, Ikanone has realized that dream with their forthcoming Washington Avenue restaurant: Levels Nigerian Cuisine (1405 Washington Avenue, levelsstl.com).
"We're very excited to share our food with St. Louis," Ikanone says. "I have been cooking and sharing Nigerian culture and food since I was in college with whoever would listen or come over. I have always had a dream to have a Nigerian restaurant in downtown St. Louis, and I feel it is breaking down a lot of barriers."
Though not slated to open until Saturday, July 1, Ikanone and Johnson gave a sneak peak of Levels to a small group of guests on June 2, which included a tour of the space and a sampling of the food and drinks they have been developing with their team for months. As Ikanone noted, it has been a long journey, beginning when he and Johnson purchased the building in October of 2022. The space, which was formerly home to Hiro Asian Kitchen and, most recently, Kitchen 4 AM, had been vacant since the end of 2021 and was in such disrepair that the roof was leaking into the dining room.
The result of their efforts is a warm yet soaring space, which Ikanone has designed to be, in his words, "filled with Instagrammable moments." This vibe begins the moment you walk through the front doors and are greeted with a green botanical wall emblazoned with the words "Experience Levels" on the left side of the entryway. Just past that area is the bar and lounge, where guests can drink and dine in wooden booths, also decorated with a botanical wall that provides an ideal photo backdrop. This area then leads to the main dining room, which is a mix of booths and tables. Its most notable design features are the many thatched chandeliers that hang from the lofted ceilings and a mural, put together by Johnson, that features photographs of street scenes and different monuments throughout west Africa, in particular some of Ikanone's favorite sites in both Lagos and Abuja.
This aesthetic carries into the upstairs loft, which includes its own bar and a reception space; Ikanone and Johnson hope to use this area for private events and receptions, and they also plan on turning it into a rotating gallery where they will display the work of local artists.
"Upstairs, the idea is to feature local artists in different installations every quarter," Ikanone says. "We want to focus on Afro-centric and nature-centric art, and we will be able to sell it right off the wall. We're calling the campaign 'Let Your Art Live at Levels.'"
Levels will feature a full bar with a curated selection of beer, wine, spirits and a small cocktail menu. Jeremy Devers, Levels' bartender, worked with Ikanone and did his own research to create a selection of drinks that utilize Nigerian flavors. These include the Zobo, made with hibiscus flower, ginger, pineapple juice and vodka; as well as the Chapman on the Rocks, a refreshing concoction that features Fanta, Sprite, grenadine, lemon and lime juices and bitters.
The cornerstone of the Levels experience is the food, which Ikanone and Johnson hope will be more than just delicious; they want it to be a transportive and immersive experience. The pair have been tirelessly working with their executive chef, Ruqaiya, to bring to St. Louis a taste of what it is like to dine in Nigeria with dishes like pepper soup, a lightly spiced and herbal concoction made with goat meat. Jollof rice, another traditional Nigerian offering, features seasoned rice simmered in a spicy tomato sauce with scotch bonnets, then accented with spinach, plantains and beef or chicken. The three are also excited about their Owambe fried rice, which pairs thyme-scented long grain rice with stir fried vegetables, beef or chicken and spinach. Desserts include caramelized plantains, served with vanilla ice cream.
"My mom was always in her kitchen; I loved it and wanted to do the same thing," Chef Ruqaiya says. "Whether it's cooking rice or cleaning meat, I put love into every part of the process. We want to share our culture and cuisine with the community that has now become our home."
This desire to share an important part of his heritage is precisely why Ikanone wanted to open Levels in the first place. An engineer by trade, he left behind a successful career to finally take the leap and pursue his passion, which he hopes will add to Washington Avenue's arts and culture landscape. He admits it has not always been an easy task. In addition to the usual hiccups that accompany building out and setting up a new restaurant, Ikanone and Justice faced a grueling liquor license application process, which required a six-months-long public relations campaign to secure the consent of their Washington Avenue neighbors. Sipping a Zobo while watching videos of popular west African musicians at Levels' bar is sweet enough; knowing what the husband and wife had to go through to provide this experience makes it even more delicious.
"Our vision and goal is to expose you to Nigeria," Ikanone says. "We want to give you a brief taste of what it's like to be at a nice restaurant in Nigeria. All the drinks and food are authentic. We want the smells and taste to transport you to the streets of Lagos."
Levels Nigerian Cuisine will be open Tuesday through Thursday from 4 until 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 4 p.m. until midnight. The restaurant will also serve Sunday brunch, beginning at 11 a.m. Service on Sundays will end at 6 p.m.
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