Jul 7, 1999 at 4:00 am
Although St. Louis is blessed with a host of talented culinary impresarios, Mickey Kitterman is the kind of artist who can accurately be cited as a true treasure to food fanatics. Many local chefs are inventive, but Kitterman is one of the few who has no qualms about pushing the envelope to encompass dinners as performance art.

We still have fond memories of one of his "last meal on the Titanic" dinners from a year or so ago, and Wednesday, July 14, Kitterman will re-create a part of the menu from one of the great food movies of all times, Babette's Feast. The meal — held at the Sappington Barn Restaurant, 1015 S. Sappington Rd. — starts with blinis demi-doff with sour cream and caviar, followed by turtle soup, a palate-cleansing sorbet and an entree of stuffed quail baked in puff pastry with truffle sauce. The dinner continues with a nice cheese plate and concludes with a dessert of babas au rhum.

This event prompted us to consider some of our other favorite food movies that might be adaptable to special dinners. Of course there's the concept of an Italian Big Night, complete with the rarely found tympano pasta. In keeping with the theme of the movie, Kitterman could set a never-occupied place for someone like Ralph Butler or even Hans Vonk. Alternatively, he could hold a Japanese Tampopo meal. The udon noodles would be a real treat, but given that he's in St. Louis County, the place might get raided if he were to try serving eggs.

Well, perhaps better simply to rent those movies. Meanwhile, with true attention to detail, it's no accident that Kitterman's Feast is being held on Bastille Day. Meal, wine, tip and tax are all included for $49, and you can make reservations by calling 966-8387.

Allons, enfants! Le jour de Bab' est arrivé!