Review Preview: Balaban's Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar

This week I visit Balaban's Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar, which former Balaban's owner Steve McIntyre opened in Chesterfield in November of last year. This new Balaban's is a wine store and carryout spot as well as a wine bar and sit-down restaurant.

click to enlarge JENNIFER SILVERBERG
Jennifer Silverberg
Follow me after the jump for a sneak preview of my review.

If Balaban's Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar is meant to evoke nostalgia, then I must admit upfront that I'm not the ideal audience. I wasn't yet born when Herbie Balaban opened his iconic restaurant in the Central West End; by the time I did review it, 35 years later, it was in its final iteration, the menu purged of beef Wellington, cucumber bisque and other Balaban's classics, the see-and-be-seen bar purged of smokers (and, thus, vacant). I liked this "new" Balaban's, but St. Louis diners didn't cotton to the changes: In January 2008 the restaurant closed its doors.

Yet the lure of the Balaban's mythos remains strong.
Visit the RFT restaurant page late tomorrow afternoon or check back here Wednesday morning to see what I think.

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