Review Preview: Hiro

Oct 11, 2011 at 9:00 am
This week I visit Hiro (609 Eastgate Avenue; 314-721-9168), the sushi and izakaya restaurant that opened this summer in the Delmar Loop, part of the musical-chairs rearrangement of sushi joints that moved Blue Ocean Sushi and closed Seki.

What does Hiro bring to the area's crowded sushi table? There are some interesting dishes here. There are also some, um, interesting rolls.

A sneak peek of my review is after the jump.

Sometimes, at a sushi restaurant, reading over the menu of "special" rolls, my eyes will glaze over and I will slip into a reverie in which I imagine wrapping whatever is close at hand -- chopsticks, my cell phone, my wife's purse, a small child -- in nori, topping it with salmon, avocado, maybe a pinch of that teensy orange flying- fish roe and a drizzle of eel sauce, and then serving it to another table. Would they notice anything was amiss? These days I might not.

At Hiro, this moment struck after I read about the "Crunchy Pig" roll (pork belly, bacon and shredded pork) but before I made it to the "Buffalo" roll (grilled chicken and "wasabi ranch" sauce). It was probably right around the time I encountered the "Cabana Boy" (tempura-fried oyster with cucumber and wasabi ranch dressing).

Visit the RFT restaurant page late this afternoon or check back here tomorrow morning to read my review of Hiro.