What makes a steak legendary? Its heroism during the invasion of Grenada? Its knack for hitting a bases-clearing double when the game's on the line? The need for even the smallest restaurant chain to brand every aspect of its existence? Find out the answer in this week's review.
Meanwhile, I'm off to Baltimore for a few days, with dinner planned at one of its most esteemed restaurants. I often compare my hometown to St. Louis. How do their restaurants compare? Keep an eye on this space.