Review Preview: Taste

Jun 7, 2011 at 9:00 am

This week, I visit Taste (4584 Laclede Avenue; 314-361-1200) to see how the restaurant once known (and acclaimed) as Taste by Niche has adapted to its new location and its new leader, Adam Altnether:

The special at Taste this sticky spring evening is simple fare: two slices of toasted bread, each rubbed with garlic and the cut side of a tomato, soaking it in pulp and juice, and then topped with a gossamer slice of house-cured prosciutto. The prosciutto is salty, porky perfection, like silk on the tongue, while the tomato's acidic bite adds a burst of summery brilliance. This is as pure and delicious a thing as you will eat all season.

A simple dish, yes, but for Adam Altnether, Taste's 24-year-old chef, it marks the culmination of more than a year's work.

Visit the RFT restaurant page late this afternoon or check back here tomorrow morning to see what I think.

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Ian Froeb

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