Each serving -- each bite -- was a revelation. I didn't know octopus could be this delicious, or this tender. The tentacles are roasted with onion and olive oil before service. They shrink considerably and take on a texture closer to buttery scallops than their own chewy nature. They are served chilled in a light red-pepper oil with slices of potato confit and a garnish of pea shoots with preserved-lemon sauce.
(Since my review was published, the octopus preparation has changed. However, it was merely one of several Taste dishes -- the roasted-radish bruschetta, the Moroccan lamb -- that could have held the top spot. Go.)
-- "Accounting for Taste," October 15, 2009
Taste by Niche
1831 Sidney Street
314-773-7755; website
