These are corn tortillas sprinkled with chopped onions and a tangy, crumbled cheese. The tortillas are folded into wedges and fried on a flattop; the wedges are topped with a fiery sauce of red chiles and then smothered with more of the same cheese, along with sour cream, lettuce and chopped carrots, potatoes and jalapeño. The potato and carrot provide ballast for the one-two punch of the sauce and the jalapeños, the lettuce and sour cream a cooling antidote. Remarkably, for all these toppings, you can still taste the tortillas' light masa flavor -- they even retain a little of their fried-crisp texture.
-- "Taco the Town," February 26, 2009
Taqueria El Jalapeño
10009 St. Charles Rock Road, St. Ann
314-426-9951
