Thurman’s in Shaw (4069 Shenandoah Avenue, 314-696-2784) opened in September 2016, a retooled version of the neighborhood eatery that under a previous owner was known as Thurman's Grill. At the time, it offered bar food favorites — burgers, fries and cold beer. But last month, owner Doug Fowler took the plunge on a new vision inspired by the easy-to-port food enjoyed by people on the go on the streets of Mexico.
Fowler explains, “You can get a good burger in a lot of places in St. Louis.” He'd been thinking about a pivot to Mexican street food for a while, saying he recognizes its popularity and also likes its fast-casual nature. “People eat, drink, order more to eat, drink and order more," he says.Fowler's new menu features seven items that are already a hit with his longtime customers: chips and salsa, guacamole, street tacos, a giant burrito, tostadas, queso con chorizo and Mexican street corn.
Both the spicy red and green salsas are made in-house; the green is noticeably spicier. The guacamole is whipped smooth. Both are paired with freshly made yellow corn tortilla chips.
Tacos are available with three options: chicken marinated in a tomatillo “ancient voodoo sauce,” carne asada or tilapia served in soft, warm, white corn tortillas. A twelve-inch giant burrito is stuffed with the diner’s choice of any combination of lettuce, carne asada, beans, salsa, guacamole, grilled chicken, fish, corn or a vegetable mix.
Crispy tostadas are topped with beans, lettuce, guacamole, grilled onions and peppers and sour cream. Spicy queso con chorizo is made in-house and served with chips. The Mexican street corn is grilled with fresh lime and mayonnaise, cut off the cob and dressed with queso fresco in the bowl.
Also debuting in January was a craft cocktail list headlined by margaritas made with fresh lemon and lime juice and agave syrup — no mixes here. The lineup also includes a stout bloody mary, a Moscow
Topo Chico sparkling water, which is enjoying a bit of a cult following at the moment, is also a new offering.
What hasn’t changed is the live jazz on Thursday, Friday
Thurman’s in Shaw is open Tuesday through Thursday from 4 p.m. until 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 4 p.m. until 1:30 a.m.
Scroll down for additional photos of the food and space.
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