Top Ten Dishes 2012 #2: Chitarra at Pastaria

I'm counting down the top ten dishes from the new restaurants that I reviewed in 2012. Read the complete series to date.

Pasta makers Greg Reece and Mike McManus at work at Pastaria. - JENNIFER SILVERBERG
Jennifer Silverberg
Pasta makers Greg Reece and Mike McManus at work at Pastaria.

#2. Chitarra at Pastaria (7734 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-862-6603)

You could easily overlook the most exciting dish at Pastaria. The menu calls it simply "Chitarra" and offers no further description aside from a list of the supporting ingredients: olive oil, garlic, chile. In this case, though, such a list is apt because the dish brings nothing but strands of pasta alla chitarra tossed with olive oil, slivered garlic and chile-pepper flakes. Its beauty and charm is its simplicity: the lightly chewy pasta coated with the fruity, nutty oil, the garlic softened to a very mild bite, just a pinch of chile heat. Which is why the chitarra is so exciting: It's the perfect introduction to what simple, casual and affordable Italian food should be, not the limp, oversauced slop it all too often is.

-- from "Using Their Noodles" (December 13, 2012)

Previously:

#3: Steak tartare at Little Country Gentleman #4: The "Pork Porterhouse" at Cleveland-Heath #5: Grilled quail at Blood & Sand #6: "Spicy Wonton Soup" at Famous Szechuan Pavilion #7: Pho at St. Louis Pho #8: "Dad's Green-Chile Cheeseburger" at Five Star Burgers #9: The pambazo at Siete Luminarias #10: The oatmeal cream pie at Pint Size Bakery & Coffee

About The Author

Scroll to read more Food & Drink News articles (1)
Join the Riverfront Times Press Club

Local journalism is information. Information is power. And we believe everyone deserves access to accurate independent coverage of their community and state.
Help us keep this coverage going with a one-time donation or an ongoing membership pledge.

Newsletters

Join Riverfront Times Newsletters

Subscribe now to get the latest news delivered right to your inbox.