Trying to Look Down Our Noses at Mile 277 Tap & Grill

The beef brisket sandwich at Mile 277 Tap & Grill - Ian Froeb
Ian Froeb
The beef brisket sandwich at Mile 277 Tap & Grill
The Place: Mile 277 Tap & Grill (10701 Watson Road, Sunset Hills; 314-645-3277), the motorcycle-themed restaurant and bar that opened a few months ago adjacent to the Holiday Inn Southwest.

The Lunch: The "Fat Boy Beef Brisket" sandwich, with housemade potato chips for $10.

Before I get to the sandwich, an admission -- of my own stupidity more than anything else. Somehow, in reading about this restaurant (including Gut Check's own "First Look" earlier this year) and even visiting its website prior to my first visit, it escaped my attention that, besides motorcycle-themed décor, Mile 277 features female servers in tight, low-cut tops and short skirts.

Very low-cut tops. Very short skirts.

Yes, Mile 277 is a breastaurant. Whatever your feelings about such an establishment, at least now you won't be as surprised as I was to face a rippling sea of boob flesh whenever I looked up from my plate.

The Verdict: A happily married man, I stared down my nose and focused my attention on my lunch.

The "Fat Boy Beef Brisket" sandwich is messy, but not so oversized as its moniker might suggest. The brisket -- smoked in-house, according to the menu -- is sliced medium-thick and served with onion, barbecue sauce and pepper jack cheese on Texas toast.

The meat was tender, but its flavor was drowned out by the generically tangy barbecue sauce. I hardly noticed the pepper jack cheese. The Texas toast did help to keep the sandwich together, but between the amount of both meat and sauce, this was a two-hands-and-a-fork (and two-plus napkin) sandwich.

The housemade potato chips were good: crisp, with a little chew to them. Overall, the meal was standard bar-and-grill fare, palatable but unmemorable. I'm not sure it lived up to the hype of the "Fat Boy" name or the $10 price tag.

Whether a visit to Mile 277 offers some additional, intangible value is matter for individual deliberation.

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