Support Local Journalism. Join Riverfront Times Press Club.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

The Dish: Fish and Chips at Molly Darcys

Posted By on Thu, Jan 15, 2009 at 5:13 PM


Maybe I need to take a break from fish and chips.

The specimen in question comes from Molly Darcys, an Irish pub that opened this September in the Seven Gables Inn in Clayton (26 North Meramec Avenue). I want to put Irish pub in quotation marks -- the place looks like it was built from a kit -- but the pub is the sibling of a Molly Darcys in Killarney, Ireland.

At any rate, the menu is mostly sandwiches. There is a daily special, the same each day each week. Thursday is chicken pot pie. I wasn't in the mood for chicken pot pie or a sandwich, so I ordered the fish and chips.

As I said, maybe I need to take a break from fish and chips. It was greasy, but not overly so -- I mean, it's deep-fried fish, after all. The batter was crisp, the cod snow-white and flaky. There was nothing wrong with it, strictly speaking. Yet it had no taste whatsoever and sat in my stomach like a big ball of battered bland.

(Malt vinegar helped, but not much. I didn't touch the tartar sauce pictured. Would you?)

On a related note, Jason Sheehan, the incomparable restaurant critic for our sister paper in Denver, last week wrote his rules for opening a great Irish bar. I wish he'd shared these with the Molly Darcys people before they hung their Guinness ads on the wall.

Tags: , ,

Support Local Journalism.
Join the Riverfront Times Press Club

Local journalism is information. Information is power. And we believe everyone deserves access to accurate independent coverage of their community and state. Our readers helped us continue this coverage in 2020, and we are so grateful for the support.

Help us keep this coverage going in 2021. Whether it's a one-time acknowledgement of this article or an ongoing membership pledge, your support goes to local-based reporting from our small but mighty team.

Join the Riverfront Times Club for as little as $5 a month.

Read the Digital Print Issue

December 1, 2021

View more issues


Never miss a beat

Sign Up Now

Subscribe now to get the latest news delivered right to your inbox.

Best Things to Do In St. Louis

© 2021 Riverfront Times

Website powered by Foundation