Join Riverfront Times Press Club. Because No News is Bad News.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

The Dish: Five Guys Burgers and Fries

Posted By on Thu, Jan 22, 2009 at 3:06 PM


I still haven't completely recovered from the closing of Big V's Burger Joint. While Five Guys Burgers and Fries might not fill all of the gap in my heart, I think it will accelerate the healing process.

A lot.

Five Guys was founded in Arlington, Virginia, in 1986. It now has more than 300 locations spread across 25 states. It recently opened its first St. Louis location at Town & Country Crossing, by the border between Town & Country and Chesterfield.

The menu is blissfully simple: burgers, hot dogs and fries. Toppings are free. Jalapeño slices are the most exotic of these. A regular burger has two patties, thin and (alas) well done. I ordered my burger with bacon, cheese and -- trying to recreate my beloved Big V's Animal, though this didn't occur to me until later -- jalapeño slices and grilled onions.

Though well-done, the patties weren't dry. Even better, they managed to be juicy without seeming too greasy, the flaw of many fast-food burgers. The bacon was crisp, the onions were strong and a tad sweet and the jalapeño slices -- served raw and unseeded, so they packed a punch.All in all, a damn fine burger. And at $5.99 (before tax), more than worthy of Gut Check's $6 Gourmet certification.

And the fries! These are fries exactly as they should be, thick-cut, with the idealbalance between a crisp, brown exterior and a hot, fluffy interior. Though I couldn't see how the fries were made from start to finish, they tasted like fries made the proper way: freshly cut, soaked, fried once and then fried again at service.

A nice touch: A dry-erase board near the service counter tells you the origin of "Today's Potatoes." Today's were from Sugar City, Idaho. As at Big V's, these details add up to an experience far beyond your standard fast-food joint. While Five Guys might never entirely replace Big V's in my heart -- Big V's burgers snuggled up close to the line of "too-greasy," making them an especially hedonistic pleasure, not to mention that it was locally owned  --  burger aficionados shouldn't wait to check them out.

Tags: , , ,

Riverfront Times works for you, and your support is essential.

Our small but mighty local team works tirelessly to bring you high-quality, uncensored news and cultural coverage of St. Louis and beyond.

Unlike many newspapers, ours is free – and we'd like to keep it that way, because we believe, now more than ever, everyone deserves access to accurate, independent coverage of their community.

Whether it's a one-time acknowledgement of this article or an ongoing pledge, your support helps keep St. Louis' true free press free.

Read the Digital Print Issue

September 23, 2020

View more issues


Never miss a beat

Sign Up Now

Subscribe now to get the latest news delivered right to your inbox.

Best Things to Do In St. Louis

© 2020 Riverfront Times

Website powered by Foundation