Support Local Journalism. Join Riverfront Times Press Club.

Monday, July 13, 2009

Review Preview: Café Lazeez

Posted By on Mon, Jul 13, 2009 at 12:45 PM

This week I visit Café Lazeez, a Pakistani and American fast-food (or fast-casual) joint in Manchester:
Fusion is a dirty word, evoking the nightmare of some recent culinary-school graduate with Larousse Gastronomique in one hand and a tube of wasabi paste in the other. Not that you can't combine the flavors of disparate cultures. But you shouldn't have to point out that the combination is a fusion. The dish should work on its own terms. Most fusion fare reminds me of what the novelist and critic John Gardner once said about "experimental" writing: "Only if the experiment fails do we call the work experimental."

But another kind of fusion cuisine has been developing in recent years, an odd hybrid of ethnic restaurant, street-food stall and American fast-food joint. It likely won't shock you to learn that St. Louis isn't on the cutting edge of this trend -- I've been reading about the slick, hip ramen shops in Los Angeles for years now -- but we aren't missing out entirely.
Check back tomorrow to see what I think.

Tags:

Support Local Journalism.
Join the Riverfront Times Press Club

Local journalism is information. Information is power. And we believe everyone deserves access to accurate independent coverage of their community and state. Our readers helped us continue this coverage in 2020, and we are so grateful for the support.

Help us keep this coverage going in 2021. Whether it's a one-time acknowledgement of this article or an ongoing membership pledge, your support goes to local-based reporting from our small but mighty team.

Join the Riverfront Times Club for as little as $5 a month.

Read the Digital Print Issue

September 22, 2021

View more issues

Newsletters

Never miss a beat

Sign Up Now

Subscribe now to get the latest news delivered right to your inbox.

Best Things to Do In St. Louis

© 2021 Riverfront Times

Website powered by Foundation