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Wednesday, January 6, 2010

New York Times Explores Chicken Teriyaki, RFT Managing Editor Still Pines

Posted By on Wed, Jan 6, 2010 at 2:00 PM

Very good article in today's New York Times about Seattle's love for chicken teriyaki. As author John T. Edge makes clear, this ain't no fancy feast:

...the average Seattle teriyaki spot is utilitarian, with fluorescent lights overhead and neon signs glaring from smudged storefront windows. The quality of ingredients is often measured by the salt water that packers inject into the restaurant's chicken thighs.
Why does Gut Check care? Because RFT managing editor Ellis Conklin remains on a quest to find decent chicken teriyaki here in St. Louis. As Conklin wrote on this here blog in May of last year:

In a nutshell, it is the sauce, and nothing more, that instills joyful life in a chicken teriyaki dish. The sauce, for it to work its magic, needs to be rich in sake, grated ginger, mirin (sweet rice wine), some sugar and soy sauce -- and liberally applied. This seeming inability to craft such a sauce is, in my humble estimation, the central reason our teriyaki has fallen short -- that and the fact that the chicken itself must be cooked in chunk-like form, not in long and overly-thick slabs.

That said, I now must ask a favor. Where, my friends, can one get some decent chicken teriyaki in this town?

Conklin awaits a satisfactory answer.

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