Support Local Journalism. Join Riverfront Times Press Club.

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Review Preview: Milagro Modern Mexican

Posted By on Tue, Jul 6, 2010 at 9:50 AM

click to enlarge JENNIFER SILVERBERG
  • Jennifer Silverberg
Corn smut! It's fun to say -- and delicious to eat. It's one of several surprises in store at the intriguing new restaurant Milagro Modern Mexican (20 Allen Avenue, Webster Groves; 314-962-4300). Join me after the jump for a sneak preview of my review.

Corn smut is a fungus that blights corn, causing husk-busting growths that look as if they should be floating in jars in a mad scientist's lab. In Mexico, where it is called huitlacoche, corn smut is a delicacy. You rarely find huitlacoche on the menus of Mexican restaurants in the United States -- certainly not here in St. Louis, where making a margarita with fresh-squeezed lime juice and Cointreau rather than pre-made sour mix and no-name triple sec is considered edgy.

Now, however, at Milagro Modern Mexican, which opened in April in Webster Groves, you can order two dishes featuring huitlacoche: quesadillas tradicionales and enfrijoladas de hongos.
Visit the RFT restaurant page late this afternoon or check back here tomorrow morning to see what I think.

Tags: ,

Support Local Journalism.
Join the Riverfront Times Press Club

Local journalism is information. Information is power. And we believe everyone deserves access to accurate independent coverage of their community and state. Our readers helped us continue this coverage in 2020, and we are so grateful for the support.

Help us keep this coverage going in 2021. Whether it's a one-time acknowledgement of this article or an ongoing membership pledge, your support goes to local-based reporting from our small but mighty team.

Join the Riverfront Times Club for as little as $5 a month.

Read the Digital Print Issue

June 9, 2021

View more issues

Newsletters

Never miss a beat

Sign Up Now

Subscribe now to get the latest news delivered right to your inbox.

Best Things to Do In St. Louis

© 2021 Riverfront Times

Website powered by Foundation