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Tuesday, February 1, 2011

#29: The "Edgar Allan Poe" at Dewey's Pizza

Posted By on Tue, Feb 1, 2011 at 10:00 AM

The "Edgar Allen Poe" pizza at Dewey's Pizza - IAN FROEB
  • Ian Froeb
  • The "Edgar Allen Poe" pizza at Dewey's Pizza
I debated whether to include Dewey's Pizza in my list of 100 Favorite Dishes. It had nothing to do with the quality of the food. If you hadn't noticed after 71 dishes, this list has excluded chains founded outside of the area, and Dewey's is based in Ohio.

I relented in part because it is a small chain (Ohio, Missouri and Kentucky) that has a local connection through the DeWitt family. But I relented mostly because the pizza is delicious.

The "Edgar Allan Poe" eschews sauce for a sheen of olive oil. This is topped with mushrooms, kalamata olives, whole roasted garlic cloves and three cheeses -- an elegant blend of mozzarella and fontina as well as crumbles of fresh goat cheese. 

The flavors run the gamut: earthy, funky, salty. There is even a  mild sweetness, courtesy of  the roasted garlic. Tomato and parsley, added after the pizza is cooked, give the whole pie a nice clean finish. Holding it all together -- both this particular example and Dewey's pizzas in general -- is the crust, thin, with a light chew and a lovely, buttery flavor.

And if Dewey's isnt a St. Louis original, at least we don't have to share it with many others.

Several area locations, including:
559 North and South Road, University City
314-726-3434
$14.95 (11-inch), $17.95 (13-inch), $20.95 (17-inch)

I'm counting down -- in no particular order -- 100 of my favorite dishes in St. Louis. Some are well-known, others obscure. Some are expensive, others dirt cheap. All of them, I guarantee, are delicious. Please do not hesitate to share your own favorites via the comments thread.

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