Support Local Journalism. Join Riverfront Times Press Club.

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Fazoli's Inside a Walmart and Where the Heart Is

Posted By on Wed, Feb 23, 2011 at 4:00 PM

Fazoli's and Walmart go together like cheap wine and cigarettes. - COURTESY FAZOLI'S
  • courtesy Fazoli's
  • Fazoli's and Walmart go together like cheap wine and cigarettes.

If you had to name one corporation and one person out for world domination right now, it'd be a no-brainer: Walmart and Natalie Portman. And now, with an assist from the fast-casual Fazoli's chain, Walmart is stepping up its game. Last week, with much flack-stoked fanfare, Fazoli's cut the ribbon on the Nation's First Fazoli's Inside a Walmart. It is, in fact, the nation's first Fazoli's Inside Anything Other Than Fazoli's, as the Kentucky-based chain branches for the first time into the realm of what's known in the trade as "non-traditional units."

In our very own south county, no less!

Such a confluence of events practically cries out for an installment of "Dinner and a Movie." And what better movie than Where the Heart Is, in which Portman's character lives -- and gives birth! -- in a Walmart, after her deadbeat baby daddy abandons her.

The staff at Walmart's first Fazoli's (3270 Telegraph Road, Mehlville; 314-845-1744) is composed chiefly of friendly and chipper teenage girls. One such specimen greeted us and promptly presented us with a crucial choice: "Will this be dine-in or carry-out?"

"Will this be dine in or carry out?"
  • "Will this be dine in or carry out?"

Those who are familiar with the Fazoli's modus operandi know that dining in brings a substantial fringe benefit, in the form of an all-you-can-eat supply of the restaurant's signature breadsticks.

Two pizzas gazed up at us from beneath their respective hot lights and that ubiquitous piece of clear plastic known as a sneeze guard. One pizza, cheese. The other, pepperoni. If there's any benefit to this display, it's that you see how big the slices are and are reassured that one slice of cheese pizza will pair nicely enough with an endless supply of breadsticks.

That said, you might not want to hang around long enough to gorge on breadsticks. (Breadsticks being what they are -- baked spears of bleached, non-nutritive starch.) Because to "dine in" at a Walmart feels, well, strange. Whatever else Walmart might represent on a global cultural and socioeconomic level, it's not a place where one feels inspired to linger. It's pretty much "get your stuff and get the hell out." Endless breadsticks notwithstanding, a visit to Walmart more appropriately involves dining in one's car. In the parking lot.

Tags: ,

Support Local Journalism.
Join the Riverfront Times Press Club

Local journalism is information. Information is power. And we believe everyone deserves access to accurate independent coverage of their community and state. Our readers helped us continue this coverage in 2020, and we are so grateful for the support.

Help us keep this coverage going in 2021. Whether it's a one-time acknowledgement of this article or an ongoing membership pledge, your support goes to local-based reporting from our small but mighty team.

Join the Riverfront Times Club for as little as $5 a month.

More by Kholood Eid

Read the Digital Print Issue

June 16, 2021

View more issues


Never miss a beat

Sign Up Now

Subscribe now to get the latest news delivered right to your inbox.

Best Things to Do In St. Louis

© 2021 Riverfront Times

Website powered by Foundation