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Monday, March 28, 2011

Review Preview: DeMun Oyster Bar

Posted By on Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 11:32 AM

Oysters on the half shell at DeMun Oyster Bar - JENNIFER SILVERBERG
  • Jennifer Silverberg
  • Oysters on the half shell at DeMun Oyster Bar
This week I visit DeMun Oyster Bar (740 DeMun Avenue, Clayton; 314-725-0322), the gorgeous new oyster-centric restaurant in Clayton's DeMun neighborhood. It's a personal challenge as much as a review.
I'm probably the last person who should advise you about eating oysters. Nevertheless, I'm still going to recommend a visit to DeMun Oyster Bar.

A brief but necessary prologue: For the longest time, an unfortunate encounter with a scallop had me convinced I was allergic to shellfish. It took twenty years --and a career that veered into food writing -- to discover that a whiff, let alone a bite, of any bivalve wouldn't ruin a meal. Gradually I learned that not only could I eat each of these foods -- I loved them all.

All, that is, except oysters. The almost-still-living rawness of the creature. The way it glistens in its liquor within its freshly shucked shell. This mental block I couldn't evade. And I say this as someone who thinks nothing of ordering a taco filled with pig esophagus, or kitfo, an Ethiopian dish that is essentially a pile of spiced raw ground beef.
Visit the RFT restaurant page late tomorrow afternoon or check back here Wednesday morning to see what I think.

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