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Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Review Preview: Bixby's

Posted By on Tue, Jun 14, 2011 at 9:30 AM

The house-cured salmon at Bixby's - JENNIFER SILVERBERG
  • Jennifer Silverberg
  • The house-cured salmon at Bixby's
This week I visit Bixby's (Lindell Boulevard & DeBaliviere Avenue; 314-361-7313), the restaurant inside the Missouri History Museum.
I take my smoked salmon like I take my whiskey: straight, no chaser. You can have your capers and onion, your everything bagel. In my dream restaurant, the smoked salmon would be treated as prosciutto is, displayed on the plate like a swatch of the finest silk. Your smoked salmon can't withstand such scrutiny? Don't serve it.

At Bixby's Sunday brunch, the smoked salmon shares space on a table with some of its traditional accompaniments; on the lunch menu, it is served as part of a salad niçoise. I urge you, though, to try at least one piece by itself. This is as luscious as salmon can be, its mild flavor tinged with sea and smoke, an experience so pure that for a moment you might think you are eating a piece of salmon sashimi.
Visit the RFT restaurant page late this afternoon or check back here tomorrow morning to read my review.

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