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Wednesday, July 6, 2011

A Brisket Afternoon at The Shaved Duck

Posted By on Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 12:00 PM

The brisket at the Shaved Duck - STEVEN SHALWITZ
  • Steven Shalwitz
  • The brisket at the Shaved Duck

Welcome to Lunch Bucket List, a recurring feature in which Gut Check checks out the many lunch specials available at restaurants around town. Know a lunch special we should check out? Drop us a line.

The Place: The Shaved Duck (2900 Virginia Avenue; 314-776-1407), South City's ever evolving, upscale barbecue restaurant, open for lunch Tuesday through Friday.

The Deal: A beef brisket sandwich with a side of caramelized-onion mashed potatoes for $8.50

The sandwich is sizable, though not overwhelming, with several large slabs of slow-smoked, tender brisket. Next to it sits a small -- a little too small, maybe? -- pile a of tangy, crisp coleslaw that complements the brisket perfectly. To top it off, pick your choice of three tasty barbecue sauces: Carolina mustard, jalapeño and sweet barbecue. The full effect is hearty yet delicate all at once.

Unlike the sandwich, the caramelized-onion mashed potatoes were a bit underwhelming. The potatoes were creamy, but the promised onions were hardly detectable, leaving the dish tasting rather ordinary for its price tag. A better option might have been the gourmet mac 'n' cheese.

The Verdict: In the competitive world of St. Louis barbecue, this is certainly no Pappy's. But if you're looking to skip the lines and have a more traditional-upscale lunch, it's certainly a decent deal that will leave you satisfied.

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