Support Local Journalism. Join Riverfront Times Press Club.

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Try the Bacon, Onion and Gruyère Omelet-Stuffed Crêpe at Lola

Posted By on Thu, Oct 13, 2011 at 8:00 AM

Eggs wrapped in...more eggs. - ROBIN WHEELER
  • Robin Wheeler
  • Eggs wrapped in...more eggs.

What's better than eggs? How about eggs wrapped in a thin, eggy pancake? Lola (500 North 14th Street; 314-621-7277) provides diners with not one, not two, but four different omelet-stuffed crêpes.

We recently fell hard for the version with bacon, caramelized onion and Gruyère. It sounds like a gluttonous riot of fat, but it's really an exercise in restraint and delicacy.

The omelet is on the dense side. The Gruyère lends it a nutty flavor as well as a slight sweetness, which complements the caramelized onions. Everything is blended together well: The texture is even, and there are no pockets of individual flavors.

This omelet is blanketed in a loose crêpe, which is chewy enough to stand up to a fork despite its thinness. Silky and mild, the crêpe adds a bit more sweetness and a hint of egg in its batter.

Instead of topping this omelet-within-a-crêpe with a sauce, Lola goes simple with a sprinkle of crumbled bacon, green onions and finely chopped fresh herbs. The bacon gives a touch of crunch and smoke, while the greens add freshness and lightness to what could easily have been a heavy, oppressive dish.

There is not even a hint of greasiness to weigh down Lola's omelet-stuffed crêpe. It's filling but lacks the oily sluggishness that can accompany hearty brunch dishes. This is a brunch that will keep you satisfied through the day without making you feel like you need to return to bed.

Tags: ,

Support Local Journalism.
Join the Riverfront Times Press Club

Local journalism is information. Information is power. And we believe everyone deserves access to accurate independent coverage of their community and state. Our readers helped us continue this coverage in 2020, and we are so grateful for the support.

Help us keep this coverage going in 2021. Whether it's a one-time acknowledgement of this article or an ongoing membership pledge, your support goes to local-based reporting from our small but mighty team.

Join the Riverfront Times Club for as little as $5 a month.

More by Robin Wheeler

Read the Digital Print Issue

January 19, 2022

View more issues


Never miss a beat

Sign Up Now

Subscribe now to get the latest news delivered right to your inbox.

Best Things to Do In St. Louis

© 2022 Riverfront Times

Website powered by Foundation