Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Review Preview: Market Grill

Posted By on Tue, Dec 13, 2011 at 8:30 AM

Market Grill in Soulard starts anew. - LAURA ANN MILLER
  • Laura Ann Miller
  • Market Grill in Soulard starts anew.
This week, I return to Market Grill (728 Lafayette Avenue; 314-436-7664) a little over a year after my initial visit. Why go back? Big, big changes. A sneak peek of my review is after the jump.

Market Grill wasn't a bad restaurant, and it was ahead of the curve on pork wings, whose growing popularity the New York Times documented only last month, but in a neighborhood crowded with similar joints, it wasn't distinctive.

Such a restaurant can follow any number of paths, though the most common one is to keep on truckin', dependent on regulars and foot traffic, for as long as the money holds out. At the end of this past summer, however, Market Grill opted for a riskier direction. The restaurant rebooted itself: same name, but a new logo, a new manager, a new chef and a new -- and, boldly, or foolishly (or both), in this still-troubled economy, a more expensive -- menu.

Visit the RFT restaurant page late this afternoon or check back here tomorrow morning to see what I think.

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