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Friday, March 8, 2013

Famous Szechuan Pavilion's Spicy Wonton Soup (Novice) or Yu Shan Pork (Advanced): One of 100 St. Louis Dishes You Must Eat Right Now

Posted By on Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 8:00 AM

The Gut Check One Hundred is our accounting of the 100 dishes in St. Louis that you must eat right now. These are the best dishes at the newest restaurants and the newest dishes at the best restaurants. These are the 100 dishes that define St. Louis dining in 2013. Our list culminates this fall when the Riverfront Times Best of St. Louis 2013 names the "Best Dish" of the year.

The spicy wonton soup at Famous Szechuan Pavilion | Jennifer Silverberg
  • The spicy wonton soup at Famous Szechuan Pavilion | Jennifer Silverberg

When Famous Szechuan Pavilion (8615 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-685-0888) operated out of a drive-thru hut in Brentwood, you didn't have to eat the food to say it wasn't like any other Chinese restaurant in St. Louis. Now that it's relocated to a more typical (though spare) restaurant space in University City, you have to venture inside and order something before you can claim that it's one of a kind.

And if you haven't visited Famous Szechuan Pavilion and tried the incredible dishes there, then you can't say you've experienced the full range of culinary delights that St. Louis has to offer.

See Also: - Ian Froeb's RFT Review of Famous Szechuan Pavilion - Jennifer Silverberg's RFT Review of Famous Szechuan Pavilion

Szechuan cuisine is best known for its ferocious chile heat and its liberal use of the Szechuan peppercorn, which possesses a unique flavor (sort of citrusy, sort of floral; sort of reminiscent of gin) and imparts a unique sensation: a tingling numbness that spreads across your tongue and the roof of your mouth. (Botanically speaking it's not a peppercorn, or, for that matter, a chile, at all.)

You will experience both of the abovementioned characteristics at Famous Szechuan Pavilion, though not always and not necessarily in the same dish. The spicy wonton soup betrays its heat in the vivid orange-red of its broth, in which bob plump little wontons stuffed with ground pork. The Szechuan peppercorns lurk at the bottom of your bowl; stir them up, and the soup suddenly explodes with their more complex flavor.

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