Monday, March 18, 2013

Olive Boulevard Asian Eateries & Much More: An Updated Guide to Restaurants Along Olive, Westward From University City

Posted By on Mon, Mar 18, 2013 at 2:00 PM

Page 5 of 6

LIZ MILLER
  • Liz Miller

De Palm Tree (8631 Olive Boulevard; 314-432-5171) Easton and Tammey Romer's addition to Olive Boulevard's ethnic restaurant row is jammin', from the Jamaican specialties to the endless loop of Bob Marley concert videos on the dining-room TV. A native of Jamaica who came to St. Louis in the late 1980s, Easton makes his jerk rub fresh, and it shows: pungent, citrusy and spicy. Jamaica's South Asian influence is present in the mildly spiced golden sauces that blanket shrimp, chicken or goat curries. There's fish, of course -- from simple grilled salmon to vinegary escovetch whole red snapper (and a spicier version that's steamed in a tomato-based sauce, then baked). You won't be able to get enough of the banana rum fritters -- but the Red Stripe is abundant.

See also: -Dinner and a Movie: Jamaica Jerked Chicken at De Palm Tree and "Marley"

Nobu's (8643 Olive Boulevard; 314-997-2303) Chef Noboru Kidera works a kind of alchemy at his University City restaurant. The deft movements of his hands as he works at the bar, chatting with diners, demonstrate just how complex the making of sushi is. But what you notice about a piece of Kidera's nigiri sushi is its utter simplicity: the small mound of rice, a brush of wasabi, and then the fish, cut to the perfect thickness and impeccably fresh. The standard sushi selection is excellent -- salmon, topped with a sliver of bracing raw onion, and mackerel especially so -- but treat yourself to luscious toro or something unusual, like "The Traveler." Nobu's offers several crowd-pleasing rolls, as well as classic Japanese tempura, yakitori and noodle dishes.

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