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Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Sugarfire Smoke House's Beef Brisket: One of 100 St. Louis Dishes You Must Eat Right Now

Posted By on Tue, Apr 23, 2013 at 10:00 AM

The Gut Check One Hundred is our accounting of the 100 dishes in St. Louis that you must eat right now. These are the best dishes at the newest restaurants and the newest dishes at the best restaurants. These are the 100 dishes that define St. Louis dining in 2013. Our list culminates this fall when the Riverfront Times Best of St. Louis 2013 names the "Best Dish" of the year.

The beef brisket at Sugarfire Smoke House | Jennifer Silverberg
  • The beef brisket at Sugarfire Smoke House | Jennifer Silverberg

Sugarfire Smoke House (9200 Olive Boulevard, Suite 114, Olivette; 314-997-2301) can convert even the most hardened brisket skeptic into a believer. Those already wavering in their opposition to a meat so often improperly cooked might give in as soon as they watch a Sugarfire employee slap down an entire brisket, fragrant with woodsmoke, on the cutting board at the head of the ordering line.

See Also: - Ian Froeb's RFT Review of Sugarfire Smoke House (2013) - Jennifer Silverberg's RFT Slideshow of Sugarfire Smoke House

Almost as a dare to those who insist that brisket must be sliced thin, the employee then cuts your order to pieces that, while not slabs of meat, are certainly no gossamer wisps of beef. Each piece has weight, yet you can still cut it with the edge of your fork. The cap of fat at the top of each piece elevates its tenderness to the point of lusciousness.

The flavor is beef and smoke, of course, with a definite edge of black peppercorns from the dry rub. If you want to add sauce, Sugarfire offers numerous choices -- too many to sample on a single visit, really. In my experience, the "Texas Hot" (not overly spicy) and the "Coffee BBQ" sauces pair best with the brisket.

Is there a dish that you think belongs among the Gut Check One Hundred 2013? Let us know!

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