Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Is It Mission Accomplished at Mission Taco Joint?: Review Preview

Posted By on Tue, May 7, 2013 at 2:00 PM

  • Jason and Adam Tilford of Mission Taco Joint | Mabel Suen

Have you been to Mission Taco Joint (6235 Delmar Boulevard; 314-932-5430) yet?

No? Really? Because every time I've been there it's seemed like half of St. Louis had packed into the latest restaurant from brothers Adam and Jason Tilford (Tortillaria, Milagro Modern Mexican).

This week I recount my visits to the new Delmar Loop hotspot.

See Also: - First Look: Mission Taco Joint Preps Fresh Tortillas and West Coast Inspired Mexican Food in the Delmar Loop

Next time someone tells you St. Louis is hopelessly behind the latest national food and restaurant trends -- this someone will almost certainly offer as his proof our continued fetishization of the cupcake (and he will have a point) -- direct him to Mission Taco Joint in the Delmar Loop. Here he will encounter a restaurant experience very much of the moment. First of all he -- and you and I -- will have to wait. Mission Taco Joint does not take reservations, and diners have crammed its tables since day one. On one visit I waited several minutes for one measly seat at the bar. At lunch. While I have yet to see a line down the block, the summer throngs have yet to descend on the Loop.

All these people? Waiting for tacos? Well, yes. Tacos and also tortas and burritos and freshly fried tortilla chips with salsa or guacamole or queso spiked with chorizo, cerveza and serrano chiles. Its full name notwithstanding, Mission is no mere "taco joint." At Tortillaria in the Central West End and especially at Milagro Modern Mexican in Webster Groves, brothers Adam (the business guy) and Jason Tilford (the chef) have shown themselves more than capable of translating their respect for and knowledge of Mexican cuisine into contemporary, chef-centric restaurants. At Mission they turn their attention to Mexican street fare.

Visit Gut Check tomorrow morning to read my complete review and view Jennifer Silverberg's slideshow.

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