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Friday, August 23, 2013

Five Bistro Dinner Highlights French Wine

Posted By on Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 7:00 AM

There's a reason we named Five Bistro's Anthony Devoti Best Local Chef. | Evan C. Jones
  • There's a reason we named Five Bistro's Anthony Devoti Best Local Chef. | Evan C. Jones

The latest in Five Bistro's (5100 Daggett Avenue; 314-773-5553) celebrated wine dinners is Friday, August 23, hosted by French vintner Fabrice Roelandt. Chef Anthony Devoti has created a French country dinner menu around five Domaine Moillard wines.

See also: Napa Valley Winemaker Visits Five Bistro

The dinner will start with a Chardonnay, so Devoti wanted to do two classic styles of trout. The first is lightly smoked and braised in cream with potatoes while the other is slightly brined and poached in a little bit of butter, both with beurre blanc and some fried bacon added in to give it a little crunch. Next is a simple garden salad with vegetables from Five Bistro's own garden, plus brioche croutons and BeatjeFarm goat cheese.

The second wine course is foie gras mousse with chutney make from local white peaches and pâte à choux, paried with a Chateau de la Tour Lange Pouilly Fuisse. "I think that dish will be pretty spectacular -- the fat from the mousse, a nice, sweet tangy flavor from the peach chutney and with the pâte à choux, you're getting a buttery crunch factor in there," Devoti says.

Finally, the dinner gets into the Burgundies with a "really, really beautiful pinot noir" paired with chicken paillard and a zucchini tomato tart. Although the vegetables aren't from Five Bistro's garden (they didn't plant zucchini this year), Devoti is committed to keeping everything as local as possible. These are from Walshville, Illinois (population 89).

Devoti's menu reaches a peak with a Beaux Monts wine and beef Bourguignon confit beef cheeks, which will be cooked for six or seven hours in pork fat. "We'll have a red wine reduction with that, so a really, really rich sauce but then a depth of flavor from the cheeks," Devoti says.

The meal will end with Five Bistro's customary chocolate cupcake, but Devoti wanted to keep it light after foie gras, chicken, and beef. "That's a lot of fat!" he says, so there will be a typically French cheese course and summer melon sorbet with another pinot noir.

Fabrice Roelandt, the night's host, comes from Burgundy himself. "People really dig that, you know. Especially at a French dinner. The accent itself will help sell wine!" Devoit jokes. But really, who doesn't want to be wined and dined by a Frenchman?

Dinner starts at 7 p.m. with five courses for $90 per person. Make a reservation at 314-773-5553 or at www.fivebistro.com

Gut Check is always hungry for tips and feedback. Email the author at nancy.stiles@riverfronttimes.com or follow her on Twitter.


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