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Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Review Preview: Gamlin Whiskey House

Posted By on Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 8:00 AM

Gamlin Whiskey House | Mabel Suen
  • Gamlin Whiskey House | Mabel Suen

Brothers Lucas and Derek Gamlin of SubZero Vodka Bar fame turn their sights to whiskey and steaks at Gamlin Whiskey House (236 North Euclid Avenue; 314-875-9500). Bourbons, Scotches, ryes and whiskeys, served in every way imaginable, are the name of the game, but there's more to Gamlin than the booze. The pair joined forces with chef Ivy Magruder, formerly of Vin de Set, to create a hearty, bourbon-themed menu that is made for hardcore carnivores. See Also: Gamlin Whiskey House Debuts Whiskey Sommelier and Tastings in Central West End.

I braved the great snowmageddon of 2014 to warm up with some stiff drinks and stick-to-the-ribs food at Gamlin. Here is a sneak preview of my thoughts -- the full review will be online tomorrow and in this week's issue.

It was the evening before the great snowmageddon. The sky had that ominous steely color to it -- the one that signals the approach of a major weather event -- and the city was filled with nervous energy. I wouldn't normally go out under such conditions, but felt that, if this was the end, I'd like my last meal to be more than a bowl of cereal or some leftover fried rice. I had a choice. I could join the frantic throngs at the grocery store to stock up on bread, milk and eggs, then rush home to binge-watch the Weather Channel. Or I could drink whiskey.

Gamlin Whiskey House, the brainchild of brothers Lucas and Derek Gamlin of SubZero Vodka Bar fame, is exactly the type of place a gal would want to spend her last night on earth. It's stocked to the rafters with quality booze, unapologetically meat-driven and offers a cozy spot for people-watching when the stuff hits the fan. Chef Ivy Magruder, formerly of Vin de Set, crafted the bourbon-themed menu and the result is a restaurant that is straight out of Cigar Aficionado -- hearty, masculine and full of things that will take years off of one's life. Since we were all about to die in a polar vortex anyway, this last fact mattered little.

Follow Cheryl Baehr on Twitter at @CherylABaehr. E-mail the author at Cheryl.Baehr@RiverfrontTimes.com.


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