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Monday, February 24, 2014

Libertine's "Candy Bar": A Frozen Snickers Bar for a Refined Palate

Posted By on Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 12:00 PM

Welcome to Sugar High, a new series devoted solely to spotlighting the best ways to sate a sweet tooth in St. Louis. We'll sample the best the city has to offer at restaurants, bakeries and holes-in-the-wall, and provide some insight on how these confections are made along the way.

PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN
  • Photos by Mabel Suen

Like the rest of its menu, the Libertine's (7927 Forsyth Boulevard; 314-862-2999) desserts rotate as often as seasons change. One sweet end-of-the-meal treat, however, has become a classic at the popular Clayton eatery: the "Candy Bar." Since the restaurant's opening in May last year, the indulgent frozen dessert has anchored the menu with a decadent bookend to the Libertine's stellar savory offerings.

See also: 100 Favorite St. Louis Dishes: The Libertine's Fried Chicken

Developed by executive sous chef Joshua Poletti, the "Candy Bar" resembles one of Gut Check's favorite nostalgic options from the ice cream truck. Like a mature version of frozen Snickers bars, the upscaled dessert contains higher-quality ingredients than its convenience store counterpart while still offering up all the elements that sate those sugar-addiction fueled hunger pangs.

It might not look like much on the plate, but we know it's what inside that counts.
  • It might not look like much on the plate, but we know it's what inside that counts.

The only downside to consuming the Candy Bar comes from simple rules of publicly-accepted table etiquette. Luckily, a clean fork cuts through with relative ease past cracking through the initial chocolate coating.

From the plate up, the "Candy Bar" begins with a chocolate dacquoise, a light cake made gluten-free with coconut flour. The creamy ice cream-like component, as well as a hint of salt to offset all the sweetness, comes from a salted caramel semifreddo -- a cream-based chilled concoction that makes up the bulk of the bar. This all gets dipped in a ganache made from TCHO brand dark chocolate from the west coast. Hazelnuts add that obligatory crunch.

To sum it up, we leave you with the "Candy Bar" in a nutshell, as summed up by staff at the Libertine: "Think of the most delicious Snickers bar you've ever eaten."

Which brings to mind a familiar slogan: Hungry? Well, you know what to do.

Previously on Sugar High: - Cleveland-Heath's Old Fashioned Cherry Pie - Schlafly Tap Room and Bottleworks' Sticky Toffee Pudding

We're always looking for some sweet ideas. E-mail the author at mabel.suen@riverfronttimes.com.

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