Support Local Journalism. Join Riverfront Times Press Club.

Monday, March 17, 2014

#92: Khao Soi at Fork & Stix

Posted By on Mon, Mar 17, 2014 at 9:00 AM

Fork & Stix's khao soi | Jennifer Silverberg
  • Fork & Stix's khao soi | Jennifer Silverberg

Gut Check is counting down the 100 dishes in St. Louis that you must eat right now.

My relatively limited exposure to Thai cuisine typically leads me to a plate of pad thai and some spicy papaya salad. However, my predecessor, Ian Froeb (now food critic at the Post-Dispatch), said that I had to try the khao soi at Fork & Stix (549 Rosedale Avenue; 314-863-5572), the Northern Thai restaurant located on a small side street just east of the Loop. Froeb also included this dish in his Gut Check 100 -- as I would soon find out, for good reason.

See also: Small and unassuming, Fork & Stix is unlike any other Thai restaurant in St. Louis

When I walked into the tiny, sparsely appointed restaurant, I wondered how such an unassuming spot would deliver on its highly hyped food. One bite of the khao soi convinced me that a place doesn't need bells and whistles to deliver world-class cuisine. The khao soi, a noodle soup, is a specialty of northern Thailand. Its vibrant, marigold colored coconut broth is at once delicate and rich with warm curry flavor, filled with silky noodles, grilled chicken, cilantro and chili paste. For texture, the khao soi is topped with crispy fried egg noodles, the Thai equivalent of putting oyster crackers in soup. It's pure comfort in a bowl, as soulfully satisfying as grandma's chicken soup -- if grandma were from Cheng Mai.

Previously: #93: The "Smokehouse Club" Sandwich at Bud's Smokehouse #94: Cafe Natasha's Yogurt Dip #95: Macarons at La Patisserie Chouquette #96: The Libertine's Fried Chicken #97: Pork Belly at Element #98: M'Lwee at Baida #99: Breadbasket at Juniper #100: Bucatini All'Amatriciana at Pastaria

Follow Cheryl Baehr on Twitter at @CherylABaehr. E-mail the author at [email protected].

Tags: ,

Support Local Journalism.
Join the Riverfront Times Press Club

Local journalism is information. Information is power. And we believe everyone deserves access to accurate independent coverage of their community and state. Our readers helped us continue this coverage in 2020, and we are so grateful for the support.

Help us keep this coverage going in 2021. Whether it's a one-time acknowledgement of this article or an ongoing membership pledge, your support goes to local-based reporting from our small but mighty team.

Join the Riverfront Times Club for as little as $5 a month.

Read the Digital Print Issue

January 26, 2022

View more issues


Never miss a beat

Sign Up Now

Subscribe now to get the latest news delivered right to your inbox.

Best Things to Do In St. Louis

© 2022 Riverfront Times

Website powered by Foundation