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Tuesday, June 3, 2014

The Kitchen Sink's Sweet Potato Fries: A Taste of Thanksgiving In Each Bite

Posted By on Tue, Jun 3, 2014 at 10:00 AM

Welcome to Sugar High, a series devoted solely to spotlighting the best ways to sate a sweet tooth in St. Louis. We'll sample the best the city has to offer at restaurants, bakeries and holes-in-the-wall, and provide some insight on how these confections are made along the way.

The Kitchen Sink's sweet potato fries. | Photos by Mabel Suen
  • The Kitchen Sink's sweet potato fries. | Photos by Mabel Suen

Servers at the Kitchen Sink (255 Union Boulevard; 314-454-1551) will likely forewarn guests who order it: "Have you had our sweet fries before?" The Cajun-themed restaurant's take on the hand-cut fry comes out way different than the traditional plain jane. Coated in a syrupy marshmallow glaze, they encapsulate a Thanksgiving casserole in a convenient finger food that's more suited as a dessert than as a side.

See also: First Look: The Kitchen Sink Debuts Expanded Space and Menu

Named the best sweet potato fries in RFT's best of St. Louis 2013, a basket of the sweet starch that's been on the board since the restaurant opened will set guests back only a few bucks. Like the rest of his menu, chef-owner Anthony Ellerson Jr. came up with the dish based on intuition.

The Kitchen Sink's logo on the front of the restaurant.
  • The Kitchen Sink's logo on the front of the restaurant.

The fries start out on the cutting board, sliced from fresh sweet potatoes. Before a dip in the fryer, it takes a light floury coating that lends crispiness to every corner, even after a generous glaze of melted marshmallow and brown sugar. Some cinnamon and nutmeg spice it up, making this dish an addictive, comforting treat that's reminiscent of the holidays and available year-round.

Fans of traditional dessert can find those here, too. The Kitchen Sink also offers bread pudding and turtle cake -- a German-chocolate style cake with caramel, chocolate chips and pecans. And just to keep things adventurous, Ellerson also features "funnel cake fries" with a requisite dusting of powdered sugar, served with house-made strawberry habanero jam.

Previously on Sugar High: - Giovanni's Kitchen's Panna Cotta Trio - Crepes Etc.'s Crepe Cake - Cafe Ventana's Beignets - Frida's Raspberry-Chocolate Avocado Mousse - India Palace's Gulab Jamun - Melt's "Violet Beauregarde" Waffle - Brevan's Patisserie's "Brendan" - Winslow's Home's Chocolate Cake with Espresso Meringue - La Patisserie Chouquette's Eclair - Black Bear Bakery's Raspberry Oat Bar - Gelateria's London Fog Gelato - 4 Seasons Bakery's German Cheesecake - Libertine's "Candy Bar" - Cleveland-Heath's Old Fashioned Cherry Pie - Schlafly Tap Room and Bottleworks' Sticky Toffee Pudding

We're always looking for some sweet ideas. E-mail the author at mabel.suen@riverfronttimes.com.

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