Monday, November 2, 2015

At Randolfi's, the Food Is Great — But Don't Forget the Cocktails

Posted By on Mon, Nov 2, 2015 at 7:34 AM

click to enlarge Jeffrey Moll of Randolfi's. - GREG RANNELLS
  • Greg Rannells
  • Jeffrey Moll of Randolfi's.

When Jeffrey Moll began working for Mike Randolph as a waiter at Half & Half, he had never stepped foot behind a professional bar. Fast-forward a few years, and Moll’s name is one of the first to come up when people speak of the city’s top barmen.

See Also: Randolfi's Has Amazing Food. But Is St. Louis Ready for It?

Moll recently scored a win at a cocktail competition hosted by El Mayor tequila, in which he beat out some of the city's biggest mixology names. He also now runs the bar program at Randolfi’s, which I reviewed last week.



Though I used up my allotted ink espousing the virtues of Randolph's adventurous Italian cooking, the review would be incomplete without a mention of Moll’s libations. He has crafted a list that blends the traditional with the esoteric, much like Randolph is doing with the food — think the cocktail version of sweetbreads parmesan. His “Classics” evoke sitting canal-side at Harry’s Bar in Venice, Italy and include not one but two different Negronis, an “Americano,” and a powerhouse barrel-aged cocktail called the “Italian Stallion” that consists of North Shore No. 6 gin, Dark Horse Reunion rye, Cocchi di Torino vermouth and Fernet Branca.

The show-stopper, however, is Moll’s #37, a bourbon and Big-O ginger liquor based drink that arrives with a cap of applewood smoke. As our server removed the lid from the glass, the smoke escaped and filled our table with the scent of an autumnal barbecue. If sitting flannel-clad by a fire pit while sipping bourbon has a flavor, it’s the #37.

Moll is a humble guy, crediting his rise to the top of the local bar scene (something he would never say) as a matter of being in the right place in the right time. Which seems funny considering he is responsible for crafting some of the most brazen, innovative drinks available in town — the perfect pairing for Randolph’s envelope-pushing take on Italian dining.

We are always hungry for tips and feedback. Email the author at cheryl.baehr@riverfronttimes.com.

We’re keeping you informed…
...and it’s what we love to do. From local politics and culture to national news that hits close to home, Riverfront Times has been keeping St. Louis informed for years.

It’s never been more important to support local news sources. A free press means accountability and a well-informed public, and we want to keep our unique and independent reporting available for many, many years to come.

If quality journalism is important to you, please consider a donation to Riverfront Times. Every reader contribution is valuable and so appreciated, and goes directly to support our coverage of critical issues and neighborhood culture. Thank you.

Read the Digital Print Issue

March 25, 2020

Newsletters

Never miss a beat

Sign Up Now

Subscribe now to get the latest news delivered right to your inbox.

Best Things to Do In St. Louis

© 2020 Riverfront Times

Website powered by Foundation