THE HILL & ITS NEIGHBORS
58hundred
58hundred (5800 Southwest Avenue, 314-279-5799) is one of those rare gems that hits that perfect tone between being nice enough for heels but not so nice you're embarrassed to roll in wearing yoga pants. Owners Marc Del Pietro and Brian Doherty have carefully calibrated the menu to include both vegetarian-friendly offerings and meaty ones, with an appealing price point. The Brussels sprouts tacos are a standout, while on the entree side, braised beef is served with Parmesan gnocchi, an elegant rendering of the quintessential comfort food. $-$$. Open 4:30 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and 4:30 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Patio.
Anthonino's Taverna
For nearly two decades, Anthonino's Taverna (2225 Macklind Avenue, 314-773-4455) has been serving St. Louis diners a taste of Anthony and Rosario Scarato's joint Greek and Italian heritage in a setting as warm and family-friendly as the brothers' home. Dolmades and pizza, chicken Parmesan and gyros, pastas and sandwiches all beg you to play favorites, but the toasted ravioli is the must-order on this menu. $$. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday.
Carnivore
The Hill's first steakhouse, Carnivore (5257 Shaw Avenue, 314-449-6328) offers a more reasonable price point than the national chains, and each cut comes with a salad or your choice of side. The dining room has a more modern vibe, too, with a colorful mural of the neighborhood on one wall, white-painted brick and big windows facing Shaw Avenue. But Carnivore is not lacking for decadence; top your steak with a house butter, including garlic and herb, blue cheese or garlic Parmesan. $$-$$$. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Gioia's
An institution since 1918, Gioia's Deli (1934 Macklind Avenue, 314-776-9410) began its life as a grocery store but is now a sandwich shop with three locations. The original is on the Hill, a friendly counter-service shop named an "America's Classic" by no less than the James Beard Foundation. Gioia's is most famous for its hot salami, or Salam de Testa: a thick, soft salami made from beef and — yes — pork snouts. The flavor is rich and earthy and delicious. Try it on its own or in the Italian Trio with mortadella and Genoa salami, peperoncini, onions and cheese on toasted garlic bread. Gioia's salsiccia is tasty, too, especially when smothered with melting mozzarella cheese. $. Open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Patio.
Farmhaus
No chef is better at capturing the spirit of Midwestern fine dining than the multiple James Beard nominee Kevin Willmann, whose beloved Clifton Heights restaurant is a comfortable setting for enjoying the area's bounty. Any chef worth his or her salt these days uses local, seasonal ingredients, but at Farmhaus (3257 Ivanhoe Avenue, 314-647-3800) these are less components and more the restaurant's entire reason for being. You see elements of Willmann's upbringing on the Gulf Coast in his seafood dishes, but the restaurant remains all Missouri — and the place has never tasted so good. $$$$. Opens Wednesday through Saturday at 5:30 p.m.
J. Devoti Trattoria
A recasting of the acclaimed Five Bistro, J. Devoti Trattoria (5100 Daggett Avenue, 314-773-5553) stands out from the Hill's American-style Italian joints, showcasing chef Anthony Devoti's skill at making flawlessly executed, refined cooking feel accessible. Yes, those are white tablecloths, but the place is modern and the service approachable. The menu changes regularly but will always include a selection of pastas, pizzas and seasonal dishes. Unexpectedly, the burger is a standout; made from ground beef and pork and topped with a fried egg, it shows the versatility of this stunning spot. $$-$$$. Open for dinner Thursday through Sunday.
Pizzeria da Gloria
There's no shortage of good Italian food in St. Louis' Hill neighborhood, but Pizzeria da Gloria (2024 Marconi Avenue Street, 314-833-3734) still stands out in a tough market. Located right by St. Ambrose Catholic Church and the fabulous Piazza Imo, Pizzeria da Gloria occupies a prime slice of neighborhood real estate. The crust on their 12-inch wood-fired pies is fantastic: Light, crispy and with just a bit of char. Don't miss out on their classic Margherita, which is perfection, but also make sure to try some Pizzeria de Gloria specialties like the Bonci (thinly sliced roasted eggplant, garlic chili oil, parsley) and the Marinara (tomato sauce, thinly sliced garlic, chili flakes, extra virgin olive oil). $$ Closed on Sunday and Monday. Open noon to 9 p.m. Saturday and open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. every other day of the week.
Rock Star Tacos
A few years ago, chef and guitarist Wil Pelly was hanging out with his bandmate, Matt Arana, one night after a gig. A couple of hours and several shots of brown liquor later, the two hatched a plan to open a music-inspired taco counter out of a concession stand in New Town. The concept was a hit, so much so that the operation has since moved to new, larger digs in the Hill neighborhood, bringing Rock Star Tacos (4916 Shaw Avenue, 314-625-7508) to life in the Gaslight building. Pelly draws on his decades of experience in St. Louis' food scene — he's worked in several of the area's prominent kitchens, including the Libertine, Nudo House and Boundary at the Cheshire — to deliver Tex-Mex fare with Cuban influences that looks simple but is anything but. One bite of his whimsically named and musically themed dishes — Skinny Puppies, Street Korn, Shrimp Bizkit — and you'll agree: This place rocks. $-$$. Open from 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Closed on Sunday and Monday.
