A Food Lover's Guide to St. Louis City and the Metro East

Discover the restaurants we love in 2022

Sep 1, 2022 at 11:30 am

Page 7 of 16

THE GROVE

BEAST Butcher & Block
For their sophomore effort, owners David and Meggan Sandusky opened BEAST Butcher & Block (4156 Manchester Avenue, 314-944-6003) to push the idea of what barbecue can be. Much more than a 'cue joint, this Grove spot is a multifaceted celebration of grilled and smoked meats, including a traditional barbecue menu, a live-fire theater and whole-animal butcher shop. Of course, the pair did not forget to include the favorites that put them on the map, like fork-tender Wagyu brisket, succulent Compart Farm pulled pork, beer cheesesteak, mac and cheese, Brussels sprouts and that mind-blowing pork steak. $$. Opens at 11 a.m. daily.

Chao Baan
There's such a diversity of regional cuisines on Chao Baan's (4087 Chouteau Avenue #5, 314-925-8250) menu that it's hard to believe such a restaurant could exist. It's owned by the Prapaisilp family, and the menu showcases the food that the family cooked and ate at home, a fusion of northern and southern Thai representing the lesser-known regional flavors of the country's diverse culinary heritage. Dishes here dazzle with flavor, such as the appetizer mieng kham green leaf wraps with flavors of toasted coconut, dried shrimp, lime and fiery chile. There also the smoky take on gaeng kiew, a green curry featuring tender chicken, mushrooms, green bamboo and green tomatoes bobbing in a lemongrass-scented coconut and green chile broth. In a modern but welcoming space in the Grove neighborhood, Chao Baan is one of the most thrilling — and unlikely — Thai experiences in town. $$. Opens at 4 p.m. daily.

Confluence Kombucha
Confluence Kombucha (4507 Manchester Avenue, 314-833-3059) sits on the western edge of the Grove, a plant-based serenade in a neighborhood known for its pulsing beat. Though the restaurant is primarily a kombucha bar, its dishes offer funk, tang, sweet, crunch, chew — a complex symphony of flavor, texture and color that are so unlike anything you've previously experienced they fill the mind as fully as the stomach. The commitment to vegetable-forward cuisine does not limit what is offered at Confluence but rather delivers innovation, whether through transcendent tempeh, a simple platter of tomatoes rolled in sherry crumbles, bright gazpacho or the eight kombucha flavors, which feature everything from local Missouri paw paw to Asian pear. Diners don't need to be hippies or vegetarians to thoroughly enjoy their experiences. $$$. Opens at 11 a.m. Thursday through Sunday.

DuckBill at Platypus
What do you get when you cross two of St. Louis' top cocktail artists with one of the city's hottest up-and-coming chefs? Why, it's Platypus (4501 Manchester Avenue, 314-448-1622) of course, the Grove hotspot for sophisticated drinks, live music and, through its DuckBill food concept, some of the tastiest small bites in town. Acclaimed bartenders Meredith Barry and Tony Saputo opened Platypus last November, with the integrated DuckBill concept coming via chef Grant Heman. Expect a rotating selection of craft cocktails from some of the brightest minds in the business, as well as delicious dishes including crispy tofu, caramelized Brussels sprouts and popcorn chicken served with your choice of sauce. This dream team group manages to deliver a food-and-beverage experience that is wholly unpretentious and one that already feels like a vital part of the neighborhood despite only having been around for a short time. $-$$. Kitchen open from 4 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. daily. Bar closes at 1:30 a.m.

Everest Cafe & Bar
At Everest (4145 Manchester Avenue, 314-531-4800), you'll find a mix of Nepalese, Korean and Indian dishes prepared with fresh, healthy ingredients. Chef/owner Devi Gurung States earned his doctorate in public health, and the menu is chock-full of organic vegetables, with no processed foods or butter or heavy creams. Choose from the simple pleasures of momos (steamed pork dumplings from Tibet) or the complex interplays of meat, vegetables and spices that fill daal bhat tarkari, a complete Nepalese meal with lentil soup, rice, meat, vegetables and spicy achars. $-$$. Closed Tuesdays, the restaurant is open Wednesday through Monday for dinner, with a lunch buffet from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

Grace Meat + Three
A glance of the menu of good ol' country cooking at Grace Meat + Three (4270 Manchester Avenue, 314-533-2700) might lead you to believe that chef/owner Rick Lewis cut his teeth in the kitchen of a homestyle cafeteria — not in some of the city's finest white-tablecloth establishments. However, when you taste Lewis' cooking, you'll quickly realize that behind his self-described "blue-collar" dishes lie the refinement and skill of a great culinary talent. It's a marriage of haute blue-plate specials and down-South after-church fare wrapped in bacon and sopped up with a biscuit. Counter service. $$. Open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

The Gramophone
When the Gramophone (4243 Manchester Avenue, 314-531-5700) announced it was switching gears from being a music club to a "sandwich pub," music fans were seriously bummed out — but they shouldn't have been. The sandwiches here are simply spectacular, with creative combinations of quality ingredients piled high. Add a side of loaded mashed potatoes or broccoli salad, and you've got a solid base to soak up no small amount of booze. Which is a good thing, since the vibe here remains distinctly conducive to drinking. It's a great combo. $. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. Patio.

Layla
Layla (4317 Manchester Avenue, 314-553-9252) began as a Lebanese restaurant, and that heritage is evident in its top-notch hummus, addictive falafel fries and excellent shawarma. These days, though, Layla is equally proud of its gourmet burgers and craft cocktails. It sounds like a lot, but the concept works; it's the kind of hip neighborhood spot you wish your neighborhood had. Add in a good kids' menu and milkshakes (both boozy and not), and you've got a place for the whole family. $-$$. Opens at 11 a.m. Thursday through Tuesday (closed Wednesday). Limited sidewalk seating.

Pie Guy Pizza
Pie Guy Pizza (4189 Manchester Avenue, 314-899-0444), attached to Gezellig Bottle Shop, isn't much bigger than a garage, with one metal communal table in the center and a counter separating the kitchen from the rest of the restaurant. It serves pizza and pretty much only pizza. Co-owner Mitch Frost uses sourdough bread that's been cold-fermented for three days. The thin crust is crispy and full of flavor, with big slices that can be folded in the classic New York style. Beer available from Gezellig. $. Open Wednesday through Sunday.

Sanctuaria
Sanctuaria's (4198 Manchester Avenue, 314-535-9700) tapas-style menu now includes not just Spanish influences but also a strong Mexican component as well, with everything from bacon-wrapped dates to a grilled steak fajita platter. Whatever you order, wash it down with a cocktail; Sanctuaria was a pioneer in the art of mixology, and the cocktails remain expertly crafted. The art here comes from churches around the world, but in this sexy environment it seems more goth than spiritual. $$. Open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday and for lunch Saturday and Sunday. Patio seating centered around a striking metal-and-glass conservatory.

SweetArt
For thirteen years, owner and baker Reine Keis has been sharing her culinary talents with guests at her beloved Shaw neighborhood cafe, SweetArt (2203 South 39th Street, 314-771-4278), in the form of some of the area's most delicious and artfully presented baked goods and daytime fare. Originally envisioned as a pastry shop only, SweetArt has evolved over the years into a full-blown breakfast and lunch spot; now completely vegan, it appeals to plant-based eaters and omnivores equally, in part because of the food (that buffalo cauliflower!) but also because of the warm, welcoming environment her guests feel the moment they walk through the front doors. $-$$ Open Wednesday through Saturday from 8 a.m. until 4 p.m.

Sultan Mediterranean
Kurdish immigrants Akram Saeed and Jenar Mohammed are serving the food of their homeland in a striking space, with large windows overlooking Manchester and charming accents that reference the family's heritage. The colorful chandeliers are from Turkey; the golden-hued tea sets displayed on a shelf near the dessert counter came directly from Kurdistan. House specialties include the Sultan Pilau, a Kurdish puff pastry that wraps lamb, rice, almonds and chickpeas in layers of phyllo dough. Instead of just the stuffed grape leaves known to American diners, Sultan (4200 Manchester Avenue, 314-390-2020) stuffs zucchini, tomato and even eggplant. $-$$. Open for lunch and dinner every day except Monday. No alcohol.

Tempus
Tempus (4370 Manchester Avenue, 314-349-2878), Ben Grupe's stunning New American restaurant, succeeds by paying attention to every detail. Entrees change regularly but have included short ribs served with hunks of au gratin potato, salmon accented with verdant dill and placed atop funky sauerkraut and a chicken breast encrusted in breadcrumbs with just a little bit of mustard for the most haute Shake 'n Bake known to man. Tempus delivers a quality of cuisine usually associated with fine dining but without any of the pretension. In 2021, the spot was named the sixth best new restaurant in the country by USA Today. $$$. Open Wednesday through Friday from 6 to 9 p.m. and Saturday 5 to 10 p.m.