Fritanga Nicaraguan Cuisine
2208 S. Jefferson Ave.
St. Louis - Lafayette Square
314-664-7777
If you've never tried plantains, this small Nicaraguan restaurant is a great place to start. Fritanga offers three plantain preparations: thin, crisp tajadas; slightly thicker and less crisp tostones; and soft, sweet maduros. Tajadas, especially, might give French fries a run for their side-dish money. All three pair well with the restaurant's meat-intensive entrées. Charbroiled beef tenderloin (churrasco nica) comes with a flavorful chimicurri sauce and a devilishly hot pico de gallo, while charbroiled pork tenderloin accents dusky achiote seasoning with a bracingly tart note of citrus. Carne desmenuzada, a very thick stew of beef and vegetables has the richness of sauerbraten; a dash of pico de gallo makes the flavor explode.
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