September 09, 2014

A Pizza Story Serves Neopolitan Pizza in Maplewood

The classic Margherita, the tone-setter of all Neopolitan pizzerias, was about as close to authentic as one can get stateside, with its soft and spongy crust, thin in the middle with thick, char speckled edges. The tomato sauce was spot on in both texture (crushed but not chunky) and taste — the basil leaves, crisped by the searing hot oven, permeated the sauce with herbaceous flavor. I must take off a few authenticity points for the cheese, however. A Pizza Story uses small, marble sized balls of fresh mozzarella. There was not much cheese to speak of, and what was there lacked the earthiness and moisture of the more traditional buffalo variety.

Keep reading: Cheryl Baehr's review of A Pizza Story

Photos by Jennifer Silverberg for the Riverfront Times.
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This day's specialty pizza was the eggplant, topped with mozzarella, tomato sauce and basil.
This day's specialty pizza was the eggplant, topped with mozzarella, tomato sauce and basil.
Prosciutto de Parma and melon slices, white balsamic reduction and mint oil.
Prosciutto de Parma and melon slices, white balsamic reduction and mint oil.
Two of the three owners: Sherif Nasser and Muhammad Alhawagri.
Two of the three owners: Sherif Nasser and Muhammad Alhawagri.
The "Legend Pizza" comes with spicy capacollo, caramelized onions, fontina cheese and fresh oregano on a base of red sauce.
The "Legend Pizza" comes with spicy capacollo, caramelized onions, fontina cheese and fresh oregano on a base of red sauce.
A Pizza Story's dining room.
A Pizza Story's dining room.
Fried calamari with puttanesca dipping sauce.
Fried calamari with puttanesca dipping sauce.
A Pizza Story's dining room.
A Pizza Story's dining room.
The pear salad beings pears that have been poached in red wine with arugula, pecans and blue cheese; then it's drizzled with honey oregano vinaigrette.
The pear salad beings pears that have been poached in red wine with arugula, pecans and blue cheese; then it's drizzled with honey oregano vinaigrette.
Fresh basil grows in a window box.
Fresh basil grows in a window box.
A simple, delicious, margherita pizza, with tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil.
A simple, delicious, margherita pizza, with tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil.