November 17, 2009

Back of the House at Phuc Loi

Go into the kitchen of Phuc Loi in South City. (Read Ian Froeb's column here: "Whole Hog.") Photos by Jennifer Silverberg.
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Phuc Loi is a family-owned establishment on St. Louis’ south side. Located on Gravois across from Truc Lam in a new-looking strip mall, the Nguyen family says their busiest day is Sunday, but Fridays, like this one, are also active.
Phuc Loi is a family-owned establishment on St. Louis’ south side. Located on Gravois across from Truc Lam in a new-looking strip mall, the Nguyen family says their busiest day is Sunday, but Fridays, like this one, are also active.
Lu Nguyen at work in the kitchen.
Lu Nguyen at work in the kitchen.
The beginnings of the Phó Dac Biêt. You begin with special rice noodles, rare sliced beef and meatballs, oxtail and beef tendon.
The beginnings of the Phó Dac Biêt. You begin with special rice noodles, rare sliced beef and meatballs, oxtail and beef tendon.
Add the scallions and onions.
Add the scallions and onions.
Pour the broth over everything.
Pour the broth over everything.
Chau Van hurries the hot bowl of soup to the counter to finish the garnishes.
Chau Van hurries the hot bowl of soup to the counter to finish the garnishes.
Add a chili pepper and spices, as the hot broth cooks the meat.
Add a chili pepper and spices, as the hot broth cooks the meat.
And here you have the final dish: The soup, Phó Dac Biêtis served with sprouts, greens, Hoisin and Sriracha sauces.
And here you have the final dish: The soup, Phó Dac Biêtis served with sprouts, greens, Hoisin and Sriracha sauces.
The Cóm Dac Biêis comprised of special rice, shredded pork, grilled sliced pork, egg and pork cake, a fried egg and vegetables.
The Cóm Dac Biêis comprised of special rice, shredded pork, grilled sliced pork, egg and pork cake, a fried egg and vegetables.
The Cóm Bo Luc Lac is broken rice with sliced beef and vegetables.
The Cóm Bo Luc Lac is broken rice with sliced beef and vegetables.