Back of the House: McCormick & Schmick's

At long last, St. Louis gets a McCormick & Schmick's. Was it worth the wait? Go into the kitchen of the West County restaurant and read Ian Froeb's review. All photos by Jennifer Silverberg.
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Though part of a new expansion of West County Center, which includes another national chain restaurant, Bravo! Cucina Italiana, McCormick & Schmick's corporate template conveys an old-school, clubby ambiance.
Though part of a new expansion of West County Center, which includes another national chain restaurant, Bravo! Cucina Italiana, McCormick & Schmick's corporate template conveys an old-school, clubby ambiance.
The stove-top cookin' at McCormick & Schmick's.
The stove-top cookin' at McCormick & Schmick's.
The active kitchen with (from left to right) Tello Carreon, line cook, Derek Holthouse, line cook and Operations Chef, Henry Watson.
The active kitchen with (from left to right) Tello Carreon, line cook, Derek Holthouse, line cook and Operations Chef, Henry Watson.
On left, Derek Holthouse with operations chef (on right) Henry Watson.
On left, Derek Holthouse with operations chef (on right) Henry Watson.
P.E.I. black mussels with clams. steamed with garlic, tomatoes, basil and white wine.
P.E.I. black mussels with clams. steamed with garlic, tomatoes, basil and white wine.
Seafood and tomato risotto with mako shark, mussels, shrimp, bay scallops and artichokes.
Seafood and tomato risotto with mako shark, mussels, shrimp, bay scallops and artichokes.
A fresh shipment of soft shell crabs arrives from Boston via Bob’s Seafood.
A fresh shipment of soft shell crabs arrives from Boston via Bob’s Seafood.
A live soft shell crabs poses before its inevitable demise.
A live soft shell crabs poses before its inevitable demise.
Soft shell crab.
Soft shell crab.
Grilled Atlantic salmon with tomatoes and wilted spinach, that day's chef’s special.
Grilled Atlantic salmon with tomatoes and wilted spinach, that day's chef’s special.