When chef Ben Welch was coming up with the menu for the Midwestern, he took inspiration from other restaurants in town that were doing the best versions of particular dishes, then ran what he found through his own culinary sensibilities. When it came to burgers, he had no shortage of inspiration to draw from, but what he developed for the Midwestern is so extraordinary it's in a class of its own. Made from dry-aged brisket, Welch's burger has an intense, concentrated beef flavor with a backbeat of tangy funk that would make George Clinton shed a tear. The loosely ground meat is like a composite of the fatty brisket, wonderfully juicy and crispy around the edges; these little hunks of beef crumble off the side like bite-sized meat crunchies that could be a menu item themselves. And Welch doesn't stop there. He tops this magnificent meaty delight with gooey pub cheese, mayonnaise-heavy fry sauce, tomato jam and pickles, and then nestles it all onto a potato bun. You can tell it's glorious without even taking a bite — though how you could resist for more than a second is beyond comprehension.
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